How to clean suede shoes and boots: mud, water marks, salt and grease

What you need

• a suede brush, ideally with soft bristles on one side and rubber or brass on the other
• a suede eraser, or a clean white pencil eraser
• clean, dry cloths
• cornflour or talc, for grease
• white vinegar, for salt marks
• newspaper or paper towels, to stuff the shoes
• a suede protector spray

Most of these come in a single suede care kit from shoe shops or cobblers.

Before you start

• Let the shoes dry fully if they are wet. Brushing wet suede pushes dirt in and flattens the nap.
• Check whether it is real suede. Faux suede is often more robust, but some cleaning products are not suitable for it. Our guide to telling real leather from fake explains how.
• Test anything new on a hidden area, such as the inside of the heel.
• Use one product at a time, and never mix them.

Step 1: brush off dry dirt

Brush the whole shoe with the soft side of the brush, in one direction, to lift dust and loosen dirt. For dried mud, knock off the worst first by tapping the soles together outside, then brush.

Step 2: tackle marks with an eraser

Rub scuffs and small marks gently with a suede eraser, as if rubbing out pencil. Brush away the crumbs, then brush the area again to lift the nap.

For a shiny or flattened patch, use the rubber or brass side of the brush in small, light circles. Go gently on thin suede.

Step 3: water marks

Water marks happen when one area dries at a different rate from the rest. The fix sounds odd but works:

1. Dampen the whole panel evenly with a clean, damp cloth or a light mist of water, not just the mark.
2. Stuff the shoes with paper to hold their shape.
3. Leave them to dry slowly at room temperature, away from radiators, fires and direct sun.
4. Brush them once dry to lift the nap.

Step 4: salt marks

Winter pavements leave white tide lines on suede boots.

1. Brush off as much dry salt as you can.
2. Mix a little white vinegar with water, roughly one part to two.
3. Dab it lightly onto the marks with a clean cloth. Do not soak the suede.
4. Let the boots dry slowly, stuffed with paper, then brush.

Test it on a hidden area first, especially on pale suede.

Step 5: grease and oil

Cover the mark with a generous layer of cornflour or talc as soon as you can, and leave it overnight. The powder draws out the oil. Brush it off in the morning and repeat if needed. Old, deep grease stains may not come out fully, and a cobbler is the best next step.

Step 6: protect them

Once the shoes are clean and dry, spray them with a suede protector, following the instructions on the can, outdoors or somewhere well ventilated. It helps water and dirt bead off rather than sink in. Reapply every few weeks in winter.

What not to do

• Do not put suede in the washing machine.
• Do not dry it on a radiator or with a hairdryer. Heat can make suede stiff and crack it.
• Do not use ordinary shoe polish or leather cream meant for smooth leather.
• Do not scrub hard, which wears suede thin.

Looking after suede

• Brush suede shoes lightly after each wear.
• Store them stuffed with paper or shoe trees, in a breathable bag, away from damp.
• Let them rest a day between wears, so any moisture can dry out.

Buying second-hand suede

Suede wears in particular places, so ask for photos of these, using Message the seller on the listing:

• the toes and heels, where scuffs and bald patches appear
• the area around the zip and laces
• water or salt marks at the sides
• the soles and heels, for wear
• the inside, including the insole

Our guide to buying second-hand winter boots has a full checklist, and our shoe size conversion guide explains why the insole length matters more than the number on the label.

Selling suede shoes and boots

Brush them, erase what you can and photograph them in daylight from every side. Mention any marks that would not shift, and give the insole length in cm. Clean, honestly described suede looks far more tempting than shoes that look tired in their photos.

The short version

Let suede dry, brush it in one direction, erase marks, even out water stains by dampening the whole panel, lift grease with cornflour and treat salt with a little diluted vinegar. Keep it away from heat and the washing machine, and protect it before the weather turns.