How to tell real leather from fake on jackets, bags and shoes

To tell real leather from fake, check the label first, then look at the surface: real leather has small, irregular pores and creases, while faux leather usually has a perfectly even, repeated pattern. Look at a cut edge or the underside, where real leather is fibrous and suede-like and faux leather often shows a woven or knitted fabric backing. Real leather also feels warmer and softer, and has a distinctive smell.

Neither is automatically better. Good faux leather can be practical and some people prefer it. What matters is that the listing says which it is, and that the price reflects it.

Read the label

Most garments carry a composition label, and shoes and bags often have symbols or wording on the lining or insole.

• "Leather", "genuine leather", "real leather" or the name of a specific hide, such as lambskin or calf, all describe real leather.
• "PU", "polyurethane", "PVC", "faux leather", "vegan leather" or "leather look" describe synthetic materials.
• "Bonded leather" is made from leather scraps bound together. It contains some leather but wears quite differently.
• Footwear symbols. Shoes sold in the UK often carry small symbols for the upper, lining and sole. A shape like a stretched animal hide means leather, and a woven pattern means textile.

Labels can be missing on older pieces, so use the checks below as well.

Look at the surface

Real leather is skin, so no two areas are exactly alike.

• Pores and grain. Look closely, or zoom in on a photo. Real leather shows small, slightly irregular pores and natural variation. Faux leather is often a printed, repeated texture that looks the same everywhere.
• Creases. Press a finger into the surface. Real leather wrinkles and gathers softly, a bit like skin. Many faux leathers dent rather than wrinkle, or spring back with a plastic look.
• Small marks. Tiny scars or variations are normal on real leather and not flaws in themselves.
• Shine. A very glossy, uniform surface can point to a coated or synthetic finish, though some real leathers are polished too.

Check the edges and the back

This is often the clearest test.

• Cut edges. On real leather, raw edges look rough and slightly fibrous. Faux leather edges are often very smooth or show layers, sometimes with a fabric core.
• The underside. Where you can see the back of the material, such as inside a pocket or a seam allowance, real leather usually looks suede-like and fuzzy. Faux leather typically shows a woven or knitted fabric base.
• Peeling. Faux leather often wears by cracking or peeling in flakes at the creases and edges, exposing fabric underneath. Real leather tends to scuff, soften and develop a patina instead.

Feel and smell

In person, your senses help too.

• Temperature. Real leather tends to warm up quickly in your hands. Synthetic material can feel cooler and slightly plasticky.
• Weight and give. Real leather usually feels supple and a little heavier, with natural stretch.
• Smell. Real leather has a rich, familiar smell. Faux leather may smell of plastic or of nothing much.

Avoid "tests" you may have seen online that involve flames or water on someone else's item. They can damage the piece and are not something to try before you own it.

Checking leather from a listing online

You cannot touch a piece through a screen, so ask for what the checks need. On Rewear, tap Message the seller and ask for:

1. A clear photo of the composition label or the symbols on the lining or insole.
2. A close-up of the surface in daylight, showing the grain.
3. A photo of an edge or the inside of a pocket or seam.
4. Close-ups of the elbows, collar, cuffs or, for bags and shoes, the corners, handles and toes, where wear shows first.

If a listing says leather and the item arrives as faux, that is not as described. Do not confirm delivery: message the seller and open a problem report on the order. Our guide to buying second-hand safely explains how buyer protection works.

Caring for second-hand leather

A good leather jacket, bag or pair of boots can last for many years with a little care.

• Wipe it with a soft, slightly damp cloth to remove dust and marks.
• Condition it now and then with a product made for leather, testing on a hidden area first.
• Let it dry naturally if it gets wet, away from radiators, and stuff shoes and bags with paper to keep their shape.
• Store it on a wide hanger or stuffed, in a breathable cover rather than plastic.

For boots in particular, see our guide to buying second-hand winter boots.

Selling leather

If you are selling a leather piece, the checks above are your listing. Photograph the label or symbols, the grain in daylight and any wear on edges and corners. Say plainly whether it is real leather, faux leather or bonded leather. If you are not sure, say so rather than guessing, since a buyer who receives something different from the listing can report it.

The short version

Read the label, look for irregular pores and natural creasing, check the edges and the back for fibres or fabric, and notice the warmth and smell. Online, ask for the label, the grain and an edge. Real or faux, an honest listing is what makes a good sale.