Buying second-hand winter boots: what to check before you pay

When buying second-hand winter boots, check the soles for grip and wear, the heels for even wear and loose tips, the uppers for cracks or splits at the creases, and the zips and seams for damage. Ask for the insole length in cm rather than relying on the size, and ask about the inside: the lining, the insole and any smell. A pair with plenty of sole left and sound uppers can have years of wear in it.

Good boots are expensive new, and many are barely worn before they are sold on. Here is how to tell a great buy from a pair that will let the rain in.

The soles: grip and wear

The sole is what keeps you upright on wet pavements, so look at it first.

• Tread depth. Look at the pattern across the whole sole. Worn-smooth patches, especially at the ball of the foot, mean less grip on ice and wet leaves.
• Even wear. Some wear on the outer heel edge is normal. Very uneven wear may mean the boots have shaped to someone else's walk.
• Separation. Check where the sole meets the upper all the way round. Any gap lets water in and can be costly to repair.
• Cracks in rubber soles, which can happen with age even when a boot has not been worn much.

Ask the seller for a clear photo of both soles, straight on, in daylight.

The heels

• Heel tips. On heeled boots, the small block at the bottom of the heel wears down first. A worn tip can often be replaced by a cobbler, but it is worth knowing about.
• Wobble. Ask the seller whether the heels are firm. A loose heel is harder to fix than a worn tip.
• Scuffs on the back of the heel, where it catches on pedals and steps.

The uppers

How the upper looks at the creases tells you a lot about how the boots were cared for.

• Leather should flex at the creases without cracking. Fine lines are normal; deep cracks are not. Our guide on how to tell real leather from fake helps you check what the boots are made of.
• Suede should have an even nap. Bald patches, water marks or salt stains can be hard to remove.
• Synthetic uppers can peel at the creases and toe as they age.
• Shape. Boots that were stored without support can sag at the ankle or crease badly at the shaft.

Zips, laces and seams

• Zips should run smoothly the whole length. Ask the seller to confirm they work and to photograph the zip teeth near the bottom, where they take the most strain.
• Elastic panels on Chelsea boots should still spring back rather than hang loose.
• Stitching should be intact, especially at the toe and where the shaft joins the foot.
• Eyelets and hooks should be secure on lace-up boots.

The inside

The part you cannot see in most listing photos matters just as much.

• Insoles can show how much wear a boot has had. Deep heel and toe impressions mean a lot of use.
• Linings in warm boots, such as fleece or shearling-style linings, flatten over time and lose some warmth.
• Smell. Ask honestly. Odours can be hard to shift from footwear.
• Removable insoles are a bonus, since they can be replaced.

Getting the fit right

Shoe sizes vary between brands and between UK, EU and US labels, so a size alone is not a reliable guide. Our UK shoe size conversion guide explains why.

The most useful figure is the insole length in cm, measured inside the boot from heel to toe. Measure the insole of a pair of boots that fit you well and compare. For winter boots, remember you may wear thicker socks, so a little extra room helps.

For knee-high boots, also ask for the calf circumference at the widest point and the shaft height, and compare with your own calf measurement. Our guide to measuring clothes for buying online shows how to take your own measurements.

What to ask the seller

On Rewear, tap Message the seller on the listing and ask for:

1. Photos of both soles and both heels.
2. Close-ups of the toes, the creases and the zips.
3. A photo of the insoles.
4. The insole length in cm, and the calf and shaft measurements for tall boots.
5. Whether there is any smell, leak or repair.

Making second-hand boots last

• Clean off salt and mud promptly with a damp cloth.
• Dry them naturally, stuffed with newspaper, away from radiators, which can crack leather.
• Protect them. A waterproofing spray made for the material helps leather and suede cope with wet weather.
• Use boot shapers or rolled-up magazines to keep tall shafts upright in storage.
• Get them resoled before the sole wears through. A cobbler can often give good boots a second life.

Selling boots?

Winter boots are one of the pieces buyers look for as the weather turns. Clean them, photograph the soles, heels, toes and insoles, and give the insole length in cm. Mention any wear or repairs plainly. Boots usually go in an extra large or large parcel, so pack them in a box to keep their shape.

The short version

Check the soles for grip and separation, the heels for wear, the creases for cracks and the zips for damage. Ask for the insole length in cm, not just the size, and ask about the inside. Sound boots with sole left are a great second-hand buy.