To check the seams on a garment, turn it inside out and look for straight, even, closely spaced stitches, neatly finished edges and no puckering or pulled threads. Then gently pull the fabric either side of a seam: it should hold firm with no gaps opening up. For linings, check they are sewn in smoothly, sit flat without pulling, and have a little room to move, especially across the back of a jacket. These few checks tell you more about how well something is made than the label on the front.
On a second-hand piece, they also tell you how it has been worn. Here is what to look for.
Why seams and linings matter
Seams hold a garment together, and linings help it hang well, protect the fabric and make it easier to put on. They are also where makers save money on cheaper clothes. A well-made piece usually shows it on the inside.
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Checking the seams
The stitching
- Straight and even. Stitches should run in a smooth line, without wobbling or wandering off the edge.
- Closely spaced. Small, dense stitches are stronger than long, loose ones, which can pull open.
- No loose ends. A few stray threads are normal. Lots of loose or unravelling stitches are not.
- No puckering. The fabric either side of the seam should lie flat, not gathered or rippled.
The seam finish
Turn the garment inside out and look at the raw edges of the fabric inside each seam.
- Overlocked edges, wrapped in a zigzag of thread, are common and fine on most everyday clothes.
- French seams, where the raw edge is enclosed inside a neat fold, are often found on finer, lighter fabrics such as silk and good blouses.
- Bound seams, wrapped in a strip of fabric or tape, are a sign of care, often on unlined jackets.
- Flat-felled seams, folded and stitched down twice, are strong and common on jeans and work shirts. Our guide to spotting good quality denim explains more.
- Raw, fraying edges with no finish at all may unravel over time.
The pull test
Hold the fabric either side of a seam and pull gently. A good seam stays closed. If you see gaps opening between the stitches, or the threads of the fabric sliding apart next to the seam, it may split with wear. Check the seams that take the most strain: the seat and crotch of trousers, the underarms, the back of the shoulders.
Pattern matching
On checked, striped or patterned fabric, look at whether the pattern lines up across the seams, especially at the centre front, the side seams and the pockets. Matching takes more fabric and more time, so it is a good sign.
Hems and buttonholes
- Hems should be even all the way round, with stitches that are barely visible on the outside on smarter pieces.
- Buttonholes should be densely stitched, with no fraying threads.
Checking the lining
A lining is a layer of fabric sewn inside a coat, jacket, skirt or dress.
- Sewn in neatly. Look where the lining meets the outer fabric at the hem, cuffs and front edges. It should be smooth, without puckers or loose stitches.
- Sits flat. A lining that is too small pulls on the outer fabric, making it hang badly.
- Has room to move. Many well-made jackets and coats have a fold or pleat down the centre back of the lining, so it does not tear when you reach forward.
- Full or half lining. A full lining covers the whole inside. A half lining, often in summer jackets, is lighter and still neat if the exposed seams are finished well.
- Fabric. Linings are often viscose, polyester, silk or cotton. Check the label: the outer fabric and lining are usually listed separately.
Signs of wear on second-hand clothes
Seams and linings show wear before the outside does. Check:
- Underarm seams, for splitting or discolouring
- Lining tears, especially at the armholes and along the back seam
- The seat and crotch seams on trousers and jeans
- Pocket linings, which wear through
- Hems that have dropped or been taken up roughly
A small split seam is usually an easy fix for anyone handy with a needle, or for an alterations shop. A torn lining can often be repaired or replaced, though it costs more on a structured coat.
Checking from photos
When you are buying online, you cannot turn a garment inside out yourself. On Rewear, tap Message the seller on the listing and ask for:
- A photo of the inside, showing the seams and lining.
- Close-ups of the underarms, and on trousers the seat and crotch seams.
- A photo of the composition label.
Our guide to telling if a wool coat is good quality covers coats in more detail, and our condition grades guide explains how sellers describe wear.
If a piece arrives with damage that was not described, message the seller through the app and open a problem report on the order within 14 days of delivery. Our Terms explain how it works.
Selling? Show the inside
Buyers appreciate a photo of the lining and seams, especially on coats, jackets and tailoring. If a seam has split, fix it before you list or say so clearly in the description.
The short version
Look for straight, dense stitching, neat seam finishes and matched patterns. Pull gently at stress points. Check that the lining is sewn in smoothly, sits flat and has room to move. On second-hand pieces, ask to see the inside before you buy.
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Find your next piece
Second-hand clothing from sellers across the UK, with measurements in cm where sellers add them and buyer protection at checkout.