To tell if a wool coat is good quality, start with the composition label: look for a high wool percentage, ideally 70% or more, and be wary of "wool blend" with no figures. Then feel the cloth: good wool is dense and springy and bounces back when you crush it. Finally, check the details that cost money to make well: a full lining, straight seams, firmly sewn buttons and neat buttonholes.
On a second-hand coat there is a fourth check: how it has been worn and stored. Here is what to look for on each.
Read the composition label first
New clothes sold in the UK have to show their fibre content, usually on a small label sewn into a side seam or inside the lining. It tells you more than any description.
- 100% wool, pure new wool or virgin wool means the outer fabric is all wool, and "new" or "virgin" means it has not been recycled from older garments.
- Wool with cashmere usually feels softer. Cashmere percentages are often small, so check the actual figure rather than the word on the front of the swing tag.
- Wool blends mix wool with polyester, nylon, acrylic or viscose. A little nylon can add strength; a coat that is mostly polyester with 10% wool is a polyester coat.
- "Wool feel" or "wool look" describes the appearance, not the fibre. There may be no wool in it at all.
The label lists the outer fabric and lining separately. A wool coat with a viscose or polyester lining is normal.
On older coats the label is sometimes faded or cut out. That does not mean the coat is poor, but it does mean you are relying on the other checks below, so price it accordingly.
Feel and look at the cloth
You can learn a lot in the hand, or from good photos.
- Density. Hold the fabric up to a window. Good coating wool is closely woven or felted, and you should not see much light through it.
- Spring. Scrunch a handful for a few seconds and let go. Wool tends to recover with few creases; heavily synthetic cloth often holds the creases or feels slippery.
- Surface. Wool usually has a soft, matt surface. A strong sheen on a cheap coat often points to a high synthetic content.
- Weight. A good wool coat usually feels substantial on the hanger. Weight alone is not proof, as some heavy coats are mostly polyester, so treat it as one clue among several.
Check how it is made
The construction is where money is saved on cheaper coats.
- Lining. A full lining that is sewn in neatly at the hem and cuffs helps the coat hang well and protects the wool. Look for puckering or loose threads where the lining meets the facing.
- Seams. Stitching should be straight and even. On a checked or striped coat, look at whether the pattern lines up at the centre front, pockets and side seams; matching takes extra cloth and care.
- Buttons. They should be firmly attached, ideally with a little stem of thread (a shank) so the coat closes without pulling. A spare button sewn inside is a good sign.
- Collar and lapels. They should lie flat rather than curling up at the points.
Signs of wear on a second-hand wool coat
A well-made coat can last for years, which is why second-hand ones are worth looking at. They are also worth checking carefully in these places:
- Pilling under the arms, along the sides where a bag rubs, and on the seat. A little can be removed with a fabric shaver; heavy bobbling across the front is harder to fix.
- Moth damage. Small holes, often on the back, shoulders or under the collar. Holding the coat up to the light is the easiest way to spot them.
- Shine on the elbows, seat or lapels from wear or pressing with an iron that was too hot.
- Worn edges on the cuffs, collar, pocket openings and front hem.
- Lining tears at the armholes and along the back seam.
- Smell. Damp, smoke and storage smells can be hard to shift from wool.
None of these automatically rules a coat out. A small, declared moth hole can still be a good buy at the right price.
What to ask a seller before you buy online
You cannot scrunch the cloth through a screen, so ask instead. On Rewear UK, tap Message the seller on the listing and ask for:
- A clear photo of the composition label.
- Close-ups in daylight of the cuffs, collar, underarms and the lining at the armholes.
- A photo of the coat held up to a window, to show any moth holes.
- Measurements in cm if they are not on the listing. Sellers can add them, but they are optional. Our guide to how a winter coat should fit explains which ones matter for a coat and how to compare them with one you own.
When sellers list on Rewear UK they confirm that the title, description, size, condition and measurements are accurate to the best of their knowledge. If a coat arrives and is not as described, for example with damage that was not declared, message the seller through the app and open a problem report on the order within 14 days of delivery. You can read more in buying second-hand safely.
Selling a wool coat? Describe it like a buyer would want
If you are clearing out a coat, the checks above are your listing. Photograph the composition label, the lining and any wear in daylight, give the fibre content exactly as it is written on the label, and mention any pilling or marks rather than leaving buyers to find them. Add the chest, shoulder, sleeve and length in cm if you can, so buyers do not have to guess.