How to spot good quality denim: fabric, stitching and hardware

The fabric

Composition

The label inside the waistband or a side seam tells you what the denim is made of.

• 100% cotton is the classic. It is sturdy, holds its shape well and fades over time. It has little stretch, so the fit matters more.
• Cotton with a little elastane (often shown as 1% to 3%) adds stretch and comfort. Good stretch denim recovers its shape after wear.
• Higher stretch blends, with polyester and more elastane, are softer and closer-fitting, but can bag at the knees and lose their recovery over time.

There is no single right answer. It depends how you like your jeans to feel, but check the label so you know what you are getting.

Weight

Denim is often described by weight, in ounces per square yard. You will not always see the figure, but you can feel it.

• Lighter denim feels soft and thin, and suits warmer weather and looser styles.
• Mid-weight denim is the everyday all-rounder.
• Heavy denim feels stiff and substantial at first, and softens with wear.

Weight is not quality on its own, but very thin, flimsy denim usually wears through faster at the thighs.

The weave

Look closely at the fabric. Denim is a twill, so you should see fine diagonal lines. A tight, even weave with no thin patches is a good sign. Hold it up to the light: you should not see much light through it.

Selvedge

Turn up the hem and look at the outer seam. On some jeans the edge of the fabric is finished with a neat, tightly woven band, often with a coloured line running along it. This is called selvedge. It comes from older, narrower looms and is often found on more carefully made jeans. Its absence does not mean a pair is poor, though.

The construction

Stitching

• Even, dense stitching, with no wobbles or loose threads.
• Double rows of stitching along the main seams, such as the seat and the inside leg, for strength.
• Flat-felled seams, folded over and stitched down so no raw edge shows, especially on the inside leg. Our guide to checking seams and linings explains seam finishes.

Stress points

Jeans take strain at the pocket corners, the bottom of the fly and the belt loops. Look for:

• Rivets, small metal studs at the corners of the front pockets
• Bar tacks, short bars of very dense stitching that do the same job
• Belt loops that are firmly stitched at both ends

Hardware

• The waistband button should be solid, firmly fixed and not wobbling.
• The zip should run smoothly. If it is a button fly, check every button and buttonhole.

Twisting legs

Lay the jeans flat. If the side seams twist round towards the front of the shin, the denim may have been cut off the grain. Some twist is normal in certain styles, but a lot of it can be uncomfortable and does not wash out.

Signs of wear on second-hand denim

• The crotch and inner thighs, where denim thins and splits first. Hold the jeans up to the light to check.
• The back pockets and seat, for thinning.
• The hems, for fraying or holes at the back of the heel.
• The knees, for bagging on stretch denim.
• The belt loops and waistband, for tears.

Some fading and softening is part of what people like about worn-in jeans. Thinning between the legs is not. Our guide to caring for denim covers how to slow it down.

What to ask a seller

Quality only helps if the jeans fit. On Rewear, tap Message the seller on the listing and ask for:

1. The waist, rise, inside leg and leg opening in cm, laid flat.
2. A photo of the composition label.
3. A photo of the crotch and inner thighs, held up to the light.
4. A photo of the back of the hems.

Our guide to buying jeans online that fit explains which measurements matter most and how to compare them with a pair you own.

Selling denim

Photograph the jeans laid flat, front and back, plus the label, the stitching and any wear. Give the measurements in cm and mention the stretch content, since buyers who want rigid denim and buyers who want stretch are looking for different things.

The short version

Check the label, feel the weight, and look at the weave. Then look for even, double-stitched seams, reinforced pocket corners, solid hardware and straight legs. On second-hand pairs, check the crotch, thighs and hems in good light, and always ask for the measurements.