How to tell if cashmere is good quality (new or second-hand)

Start with the composition label

The small label inside the side seam tells you what the knit is made of. New clothes sold in the UK have to show their fibre content, so it is usually there, even if it is faded.

• 100% cashmere means the yarn is all cashmere.
• Cashmere blends mix cashmere with wool, silk, cotton, nylon or acrylic. A blend can be lovely, but check the actual figure. A jumper sold as "cashmere" that is 5% cashmere and 95% acrylic will not behave like cashmere.
• "Cashmere feel" or "cashmere touch" describes the softness, not the fibre. There may be no cashmere in it at all.

If the label has been cut out, rely on the other checks below.

Hold it up to the light

Stretch a single layer of the knit gently over your hand and hold it towards a window.

• Dense, even knitting with little light coming through usually means more yarn has gone into it, and it will hold its shape and warmth better.
• A thin, see-through knit may feel soft in the shop but tends to lose its shape and wear through faster, especially at the elbows.

Test the spring

Pinch a small area of the body or cuff, stretch it gently and let go. Good cashmere recovers and lies flat again. If it stays baggy or rippled, the yarn or knit may be loose, or the piece may have been stretched by hanging or washing.

Check the cuffs and the hem rib in the same way. Ribbing that has lost its grip is one of the first signs of a tired jumper.

Look at the surface

Run your hand over the knit.

• A soft, slightly fuzzy surface is normal, and some fuzz develops with wear.
• A very hairy, fluffy surface on a new or nearly new piece can sometimes mean the yarn will shed or pill quickly.
• Pilling under the arms, along the sides and where a bag rubs is normal on any cashmere and can be removed with a fabric shaver or a cashmere comb. Our guide to removing bobbles from jumpers shows how.

Bobbles on their own are not a sign of poor quality. Heavy pilling all over the front of a jumper that has hardly been worn can be.

Check how it is made

• Seams should be neat and flat, without puckering or loose ends.
• Side seams and shoulders on many better knits are joined so the seam is soft and barely visible, rather than a bulky overlocked edge.
• Cuffs and neckline should sit evenly, with no twisting.
• The knit should hang straight. If the side seams twist towards the front, the piece may have been washed badly or cut off the grain.

Signs of wear on second-hand cashmere

Cashmere ages well if it is looked after, but check these places on any used jumper:

• Moth holes. Small holes on the front, back, shoulders or cuffs. Holding the jumper up to the light is the easiest way to find them.
• Thinning at the elbows and the underarms, where the knit rubs most.
• Felting. If it has been washed too warm, the knit can become thick, stiff and smaller, with the stitches no longer visible.
• Stretched necklines and cuffs from hanging on a hanger.
• Stains around the cuffs and neckline.
• Smells from storage or smoke. Our guide to getting smells out of second-hand clothes covers gentle fixes.

A small, declared hole is not always a deal-breaker. It can often be darned, and the price should reflect it.

What to ask a seller

You cannot feel a jumper through a screen, so ask. On Rewear UK, tap Message the seller on the listing and ask for:

1. A clear photo of the composition label.
2. A photo of the jumper held up to a window, front and back.
3. Close-ups of the cuffs, elbows and underarms in daylight.
4. The chest, length and sleeve in cm, laid flat. Measurements are optional on a listing, so not every piece has them. Our guide to measuring clothes for buying online explains how to compare them with a jumper you own.

If a piece arrives and is not as described, for example with undeclared holes, message the seller through the app and open a problem report on the order within 14 days of delivery. Our Terms set out how it works.

Keeping good cashmere good

Wash it rarely, cool and gently, by hand or on a wool cycle if the care label allows. Never wring it, dry it flat and store it folded, not hung. Our guide to washing and storing knitwear has the full method, including how to keep moths away.

Selling cashmere

If you are passing a cashmere jumper on, remove the bobbles, photograph the composition label, show any marks honestly and add the measurements in cm.

The short version

Check the label for the real percentage, hold the knit to the light, test the spring and look closely at the seams, cuffs and elbows. Ask the seller for photos when you cannot check in person, and look after it gently once it is yours.