How to wash and store wool jumpers and knitwear so they last

To wash a wool jumper, use cool water, a wool or delicates detergent and either a gentle hand wash or your machine's wool cycle, then press the water out in a towel and dry it flat away from direct heat. Store it clean and folded, never on a hanger, in a drawer or a breathable bag. Most knitwear is ruined by heat, agitation and moths, so the whole job is avoiding those three.

Good knitwear can last for years, which is part of why it does so well second-hand. Here is how to look after it.

Check the care label first

The label inside the side seam tells you what the maker recommends. Follow it where you can, especially for:

• "Hand wash only", which usually means the knit will felt or stretch in a machine.
• "Dry clean only" on structured or embellished knits.
• Blends. Wool mixed with acrylic or nylon is often more forgiving than pure wool or cashmere.

If the label is missing, treat the piece as delicate and hand wash it.

Wash less than you think

Wool is naturally good at resisting smells. Often a jumper only needs airing overnight, or a spot clean on a mark, rather than a full wash. Washing less is the easiest way to keep the fibres soft and the shape intact.

How to hand wash a jumper

1. Fill a clean basin with cool or lukewarm water. Hot water is what shrinks wool.
2. Add a little wool detergent and swirl it in before the jumper goes in.
3. Turn the jumper inside out and press it under the water. Let it soak for a few minutes.
4. Squeeze gently. Do not rub, wring or twist, which causes felting and stretching.
5. Rinse in water of the same temperature. A sudden change from warm to cold can also make wool felt.
6. Press out the water without wringing.

Using the machine

Many modern machines have a wool or hand wash programme that is gentle enough for washable knitwear. Use it only when the label allows machine washing.

• Turn the piece inside out.
• Put it in a mesh laundry bag to reduce rubbing.
• Use a wool detergent and the lowest spin the programme offers.
• Do not overload the drum. A few pieces at a time is best.

Drying knitwear flat

This step matters as much as the wash.

1. Lay the jumper on a clean, dry towel and roll it up like a sausage, pressing to soak up the water.
2. Unroll it and lay it flat on a fresh towel or a drying rack.
3. Reshape it while damp. Ease the shoulders, cuffs and hem back to their proper size.
4. Leave it to dry away from radiators and direct sun.

Never tumble dry wool unless the label says you can, and never hang a wet jumper on a line or a hanger. The weight of the water stretches it out of shape.

How to store knitwear

Fold, do not hang

Hangers leave bumps in the shoulders and let heavy knits stretch over time. Fold jumpers and store them flat in a drawer or on a shelf. Put the heaviest at the bottom of a pile.

Store it clean

Moths are drawn to wool that has body oils, sweat or food on it. Wash or air a jumper before putting it away for the season, even if it looks clean.

Keep moths away

• Use breathable storage. Cotton bags or boxes with lids work well for out-of-season knits. Sealed plastic can trap damp.
• Add cedar or lavender. Many people use them as a deterrent. They are no substitute for clean storage, but they help.
• Check your wardrobe now and then. Moths like dark, undisturbed corners. Moving things around and airing them regularly makes a difference.

If you find moth holes, act quickly. Wash or freeze affected pieces in a sealed bag, clean the drawer or shelf, and check everything stored nearby.

Dealing with pilling

Bobbles form where knitwear rubs, under the arms and along the sides. They are normal and easy to remove with a fabric shaver or a wool comb. Our guide to removing bobbles from jumpers covers it step by step.

Buying second-hand knitwear

When you buy a jumper second-hand, these are the things worth checking in the photos or asking the seller about:

• the composition label, so you know what it is made of
• pilling under the arms and on the sides
• any holes, best shown with the jumper held up to the light
• whether the cuffs and hem have stretched or lost their spring
• the measurements, since knitwear can shrink or grow over the years

If any of these is missing from a listing, tap Message the seller and ask. Our guide to buying second-hand safely explains what happens if a piece arrives not as described.

Selling knitwear

If you are clearing out jumpers, a little care beforehand helps them sell. Wash or air them, remove any bobbles, fold them neatly for their photos and include a clear shot of the composition label. Mention any pilling or small marks honestly, and add the chest and length in cm laid flat. Knitwear is one of the pieces buyers look for as the weather turns, so autumn and winter are good times to list it, as our autumn clear-out guide explains.

The short version

Wash wool rarely, cool and gently, with no wringing. Dry it flat and reshape it while damp. Store it clean and folded, in breathable bags, and check for moths. Do that and a good jumper will stay good for years, whether you keep it or sell it on.