How to care for a leather jacket: cleaning, conditioning and storage

Check the label first

The care label tells you what kind of leather it is and what the maker recommends. Most leather jackets say "do not wash" and "professional leather clean only". Suede and nubuck need different care from smooth leather, so check which you have. If you are not sure whether a jacket is real leather at all, our guide to telling real leather from fake can help.

Everyday care

• Hang it up after wearing, on a wide hanger, so the shoulders keep their shape.
• Wipe off rain and dirt with a soft, dry or slightly damp cloth.
• Empty the pockets. Heavy keys and phones stretch them out of shape over time.
• Give it a rest between wears if you can, so any moisture from wearing can dry out.

How to clean a leather jacket

For general grime on smooth leather:

1. Brush or wipe off loose dust with a soft, dry cloth.
2. Wipe it with a cloth dampened with plain water, wrung out well. Do not soak the leather.
3. For more stubborn grime, use a cleaner made for leather, following its instructions. Test it first on a hidden area, such as inside a cuff or under the collar.
4. Wipe off any residue and let it dry naturally.

For the lining, wipe it gently with a damp cloth, or air the jacket inside out for a few hours if it smells stale.

Avoid household cleaners, wipes, solvents and anything with bleach on leather. They can strip the finish and dry it out. For stains that a damp cloth will not shift, such as ink or grease, take it to a specialist leather cleaner.

Conditioning

Leather is a natural material and dries out over time, especially if it gets wet often or hangs near heat. A conditioner keeps it supple and helps prevent cracking.

• Condition it a few times a year, or whenever it starts to look dull or feel stiff.
• Use a conditioner made for the type of leather you have, and test it on a hidden spot first, as some conditioners darken leather slightly.
• Apply a small amount with a soft cloth in circular movements, and let it soak in.
• Buff off any excess with a clean cloth.

Do not over-condition. Too much can leave the leather sticky or attract dirt.

If it gets wet

• Blot off the water with a soft towel.
• Hang it on a wide hanger at room temperature, away from radiators, fires and hairdryers.
• Let it dry slowly and completely. Direct heat can make leather shrink, stiffen and crack.
• Condition it once it is dry if it feels stiff.

Scuffs and scratches

Light scuffs on smooth leather can often be softened by rubbing gently with a clean finger or a soft cloth, as the warmth helps the surface blend. A little conditioner can help too. Deeper scratches or colour loss are best left to a specialist, or accepted as part of the jacket's character.

How to store a leather jacket

• Use a wide, shaped hanger that supports the shoulders. Thin wire hangers leave bumps.
• Use a breathable cover, such as a cotton garment bag. Plastic traps moisture and can lead to mould.
• Give it space in the wardrobe so it is not crushed.
• Keep it out of direct sunlight, which fades and dries leather.
• Store it somewhere cool and dry, not in a damp loft or garage.

If you find white or green spots of mould, wipe them off outside with a damp cloth, let the jacket dry and air thoroughly, and condition it once it is dry. Persistent mould is a job for a specialist.

Buying a second-hand leather jacket

When you buy one second-hand, check the photos or ask the seller about:

• cracking or dryness at the elbows, collar and cuffs
• worn or peeling edges on the cuffs, hem and pockets
• the lining, especially at the armholes
• the zips and poppers, all working
• any smell, such as smoke or damp, which can be hard to remove from leather
• the measurements in cm: chest, shoulder, sleeve and length

Our guide to getting smells out of second-hand clothes has advice on airing. If a jacket arrives and is not as described, message the seller through the app and open a problem report on the order within 14 days of delivery.

Selling a leather jacket

Clean and condition it a few days before you photograph it, so it looks its best. Show the label, the lining, the zips and any wear clearly, and only describe it as leather if you know it is. Leather jackets are among the pieces buyers look for as the weather turns, and our guide to what sells best second-hand in winter covers when to list.

The short version

Wipe it clean with a damp cloth, condition it a few times a year, and let it dry slowly away from heat if it gets wet. Store it on a wide hanger in a breathable cover, out of the sun. Leave deep stains, mould and big repairs to a specialist.