How to buy vintage clothing: sizing, condition and what to check

What counts as vintage

There is no official definition. Many people use "vintage" for clothes around 20 years old or more, and "antique" for much older pieces. You will also see:

• Retro or vintage-style: new clothes made to look like an earlier era.
• Y2K, 90s, 80s: clothes from, or in the style of, those decades.
• Deadstock: old stock that was never sold or worn, sometimes with original tags.

When a listing says vintage, it is fair to ask the seller roughly how old the piece is and how they know. Not everyone will be sure, and that is fine, as long as the description is honest.

Sizing: measure, do not trust the label

Older size labels rarely match modern ones. A vintage piece labelled with a size you usually wear may be noticeably smaller, and some older garments have no size label at all.

• Ask for measurements in cm, laid flat: bust or chest, waist, hip, length, and for jackets the shoulders and sleeve.
• Compare them with a garment you own that fits you well. Our guide to measuring clothes for buying online shows how.
• Pay attention to the waist. Many older dresses and skirts are cut with a narrow, fitted waist.
• Check for stretch. Older fabrics often have little or none.

Our guide to why size labels differ explains more.

Condition: where older clothes fail

Vintage pieces are often well made, but time takes a toll. Check:

• Underarms, for discolouring, sweat stains and weakened fabric.
• Seams, for splitting, especially at the seat, armholes and waist.
• Fold lines, where fabric can fade or wear thin after years in storage.
• Elastic, which can perish over time, losing its stretch or crumbling when stretched.
• Zips, especially old metal ones, which can stick or lose teeth.
• Moth holes, on wool, silk and other animal fibres.
• Brittle fabric. Very old silk can split, a problem often called shattering, and some fabrics weaken with age.
• Smells. Storage and smoke smells are common. Our guide to getting smells out of second-hand clothes covers gentle ways to freshen them.
• Linings, for tears and staining.

A small, declared flaw is often fine, and many can be repaired. A garment that is weakening all over is harder to save.

Clues to quality and age

• Labels. Older labels are often woven, and the style of the brand label, care label and size label changes over the years.
• Fabric. Natural fibres such as wool, cotton, silk and linen were common in many older garments. Check the composition label where there is one.
• Construction. Look for generous seam allowances, hand-finished hems, bound buttonholes and matched patterns, all signs of care. Our guide to checking seams and linings explains what each looks like.
• Fastenings. Metal zips, hooks and eyes, and covered buttons are common on older pieces.

None of these proves a date on its own, so treat them as clues.

Questions to ask the seller

On Rewear, tap Message the seller on the listing and ask for:

1. Measurements in cm, laid flat.
2. Photos in daylight of the underarms, seams and any flaws.
3. A photo of the inside, including the lining and labels.
4. A photo of the garment held up to the light, for thinning or holes.
5. Whether it has any smell, such as smoke or storage.

If a piece arrives and is not as described, message the seller through the app and open a problem report on the order within 14 days of delivery. Our Terms explain how it works.

Caring for vintage

• Check the care label, if there is one, and follow it.
• When there is no label, treat it gently: a cool hand wash or a careful dry cleaner for anything delicate, structured or precious.
• Avoid the tumble dryer and strong stain removers.
• Store it clean, folded or on a padded hanger, away from damp and light.

Selling vintage

If you are selling an older piece, describe it honestly. Say roughly how old you think it is and why, show every flaw in a photo, and give measurements in cm, because buyers know vintage sizes vary. Only call it vintage if you are reasonably sure, and mention if you are not.

The short version

Go by measurements, not the label. Check underarms, seams, fold lines, elastic and zips. Look at the construction and labels for clues, ask for daylight photos, and buy what you will actually wear.